Indian
cooking is distinguished by the use of a larger variety of vegetables than many
other well-known cuisines. Within these recognisable similarities, there is
an enormous variety of local styles.
In the north and the west, Kashmiri and Mughlai cuisines show strong central
Asian influences. Through the medium of Mughlai food, this influence has propagated
into many regional kitchens. To the east, the Bengali and Assamese styles shade
off into the cuisines of East Asia.
All coastal kitchens make strong use of fish and coconuts. The desert cuisines
of Rajasthan and Gujarat use an immense variety of dals and achars (preserves)
to substitute for the relative lack of fresh vegetables. The use of tamarind
to impart sourness distinguishes Tamil food. The Andhra kitchen is accused,
sometimes unfairly, of using excessive amounts of chilies.
All along the northern plain, from Punjab through Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, a
variety of flours are used to make chapatis and other closely related breads.
In the rain-swept regions of the north-eastern foothills and along the coasts,
a large variety of rices are used. Potatoes are not used as the staple carbohydrate
in any part of India.
Modern India is going through a period of rapid culinary evolution. With urbanisation
and the consequent evolution of patterns of living, home-cooked food has become
simpler. Old recipes are recalled more often than used. A small number of influential
cookbooks have served the purpose of preserving some of this culinary heritage
at the cost of homogenising palates. Meanwhile restaurants, increasingly popular,
encourage mixing of styles. Tandoori fish, mutton dosas and Jain pizzas are
immediately recognisable by many Indians in cities.
